The exhibition Royals & Rebels in The Hague (09-09-23 until 07-01-24) explores three themes that reflect British fashion life. One of them, ‘In the country’, focuses on a wardrobe suitable for country living.
At Royals & Rebels we see tweeds, redingotes (frock coats), hiking suits and sportswear. Including some garden wear! Your podcaster took notes. In this blog she reflects on outdoor and cultural aspects of British fashion.
Royals Victoria and Diana
Britain was the first country to industrialise, in the beginning of the 18th century. Massive urbanisation in the 19th century resulted in a romantic longing for the unspoilt countryside and the wild landscapes of the Scottish Highlands. This lead to a fashion of silk tartans. Queen Victoria (1819-1901) decorated Balmoral Castle in Scotland from top to bottom in tartan, including the curtains of her carriages!
Princess Diana (1961-1997) was and remains a style icon, even if she disliked that label. Everything she wore immediately became a trend. At the exhibition we saw one of her cocktail dresses.
Diana was both a royal and a rebel. ‘I don’t go by the rule book. I lead from the heart, not the head’. She used her clothes to communicate subtle messages.
Rebel Vivienne Westwood
Vivienne Westwood (1941–2022) was a famous English fashion designer and businesswoman, largely responsible for bringing modern punk and new wave fashions into the mainstream.
In recent years, Westwood campaigned passionately for many issues that were close to her heart. She was outspoken on environmental issues and encouraged consumers to ‘buy less, choose well, make it last.’ In this way, the godmother of punk was a forerunner of climate activism.
Buy less, choose well, make it last.
Vivienne Westwood
Sports and entertainment
Some British fashion elements, like stripes and badges, are associated with the British upper classes, who have the time and money to engage with sports on beautiful locations such as Wimbledon and Ascot.
We all know that wealthy estate owners used to entertain guests on their luxurious estates, showing off their gardens and feasting on year-round produce from the walled kitchen garden.
Tweed
Tweed is a typical British woollen fabric with a rather rough texture. Tweed fabrics are ideal for informal suits for the countryside, in the typical British style of the landed gentry. They are woven in colours that reflected the British landscape, such as green, brown, grey, and blue.
Promenading at the Chelsea Flower Show
At the beginning of the 19th century women wore redingotes for the newly fashionable activity of promenading. Women’s two-piece suits, suitable as walking attire, first became fashionable around 1900.
Promenading at the Chelsea Flower Show has been one of the highlights of the British sporting and social season for more than 150 years. It is primarily a garden event, with avant-garde display gardens designed by leading names, and the Floral Marquee at the centrepiece.
‘Chelsea’ has become an important venue for watching trends, and not only horticultural trends. This floral event is still the place to be for the rich and famous, and they dress for the occasion. Here, even tv gardener Monty Don exchanges his blue jacket and scarf for a shirt and decent tie!
